VictoryGarden/WildlifeGarden/ WaterGarden

.
It is my intention to start ‘Open House’ meetings, perhaps weekly at first (since this is an intense time to start; spring is just ahead and February is the time for planning), for folks interested in growing and harvesting vegetables and/or meat & eggs; planting and maintaining a Native Plant garden that will produce lots of food and cover for birds and other wildlife; as well as a forum for those who’d like to build, or already have, a pond or water garden whether it is in a barrel, a prefab container or dug into the ground. Or even for people who just have a lovely garden and would like to share it (perhaps we can have tours!) It is my dream that interested folks share experiences with like-minded others in their effort to create, or share their creations, in gardens that provide a family’s food on a back-yard lot or several acres. Of course this could include a flower garden with chickens and/or rabbits that provide compost; just a few vegetables in pots on a patio, or a purchased water-feature that brings beautiful ‘music’ to your world. In other words, regardless of the involvement, all interested folks could participate as they see fit, whenever they are able. Are you interested?

Victory Garden
Then:
As part of the war effort, the government rationed foods like sugar, butter, milk, cheese, eggs, coffee, meat and canned goods. Labor and transportation shortages made it hard to harvest and move fruits and vegetables to market. So, the government turned to its citizens and encouraged them to plant "Victory Gardens" They wanted individuals to provide their own fruits and vegetables. Nearly 20 million Americans answered the call. They planted gardens in backyards, empty lots and even city rooftops. Neighbors pooled their resources, planted different kinds of foods and formed cooperatives, all in the name of patriotism.
Farm families, of course, had been planting gardens and preserving produce for generations. Now, their urban cousins got into the act; all in the name of patriotism. Magazines such as the Saturday Evening Post and Life printed stories about victory gardens, and women's magazines gave instructions on how to grow and preserve garden produce. Families were encouraged to can their own vegetables to save commercial canned goods for the troops. In 1943, families bought 315,000 pressure cookers (used in the process of canning), compared to 66,000 in 1942. The government and businesses urged people to make gardening a family and community effort.

The result of victory gardening? The US Department of Agriculture estimates that more than 20 million victory gardens were planted. Fruit and vegetables harvested in these home and community plots was estimated to be 9-10 million tons, an amount equal to all commercial production of fresh vegetables. So, the program made a difference.
From: http://www.livinghistoryfarm.org

Now:
Harkening to the self-sufficiency of previous generations who planted victory gardens in their front and back yards as a means to support their nation’s war efforts - today many are undertaking the challenge of declaring independence from corporate food systems, reducing reliance on fossil fuels to bring food to the table, and cultivating a more healthy and fulfilling life. This grass roots revolution is occurring in today’s modern version of the victory garden. The “war” is a revolution – and the battleground is right here on the home front. It is all about taking back responsibility and control of our own food supply. Whether it is a modest container of tomatoes on a patio deck or a full fledged self-sufficient garden – each effort represents one step towards freeing ourselves from the forces that would keep us dependent on a system of petroleum fueled and factory farmed food. Growing more of our own food heightens the taste and nutrition of meals, and along the way we experience the empowerment and fulfillment that comes from learning the basic skills of providing for our families and ourselves.

Benefits of Garden Self Sufficiency

• Frugal - saves considerable money if done sensibly without "buying" your way out of all problems
• Healthful - a diet that is composed of higher proportions of fresh vegetables and fruits is proven to be life extending
• Better for the Planet - the average produce item travels 1,500 miles to get to my table consuming petroleum in it's travels, refrigeration, and in the pesticides and fertilizers used
• Good for the Soul - a garden is a good place to reconnect with what is important in life and to literally stay "grounded"
  
  From: http://www.modernvictorygarden.com

Wildlife Garden

Like most of you, I am more than a gardener; I am a reader, a bird-watcher, interested in ecology and what plants have grown here and what has come to depend on those plants. I am also unemployed, getting older, and worried about what is in, or on, the food I eat. I am also a bit lazy, which works out for folks who want to support birds and other wildlife, but who do not put and support out a bunch of feeders. I like a simple, native, healthy yard that will offer my backyard, and the rest of the world, a beautiful retreat/sanctuary that will still allow me plenty of reading time. Believe it or not…the more native one goes, the easier it gets, and the less water used, to boot! Such a garden is not only lovely to behold, it is a life-saving island of food and shelter to bees, butterflies, birds and more; perhaps yourself!

Pond Garden

I built a lovely pond in my Denver home; it was 10x12 feet and dug to five feet deep. I used the dirt I dug to create a ‘berm’ from which I built a waterfall that used a biological filter to clean and re-circulate the water. I kept what are called Butterfly Koi, a lovely, long-fined type of carp or goldfish that can live all year in such a pond. It was a delight!

Here, in La Veta, I am in the process of creating another such pond…but I’m having some troubles. It would be good to share information and ideas with others who have or would like to have ponds. In my current pond, I have added “Shubunkins,” another hardy and colorful goldfish; much less expensive than Koi. In that we have raccoons here, and in that I’ve seen as many as four, as big as Cocker Spaniels, in my yard at once, not to mention skunks and bears…there is no point in adding expensive fish. Besides, I wouldn’t mind at all if the Belted Kingfisher dined in my yard!

A Sharing Community for Experienced and New

Now is the time to start thinking gardens! I plan to add 3-4 more ‘raised beds’ to my arsenal, and to try chickens again (last time a loose dog got in and made a serious mess of things. And some wonder why I do NOT like loose dogs, but that is another story.) I have worked it out with friends who will help me with the physical part of preparing and building for such things, as well as another who will help with ‘what grows in La Veta’. It occurred to me, as so many folks come into my yard or ask over the fence about birds I see, that a regular ‘get-together’ might be fun. I have always had folks ask about my gardens, my pond (in Denver) and here in La Veta I am often asked by birders from all over the country for permission to come see the Rosy-Finches which are quite rare, but come here by the hundreds (I’ve had 600 at a time; wouldn’t it be fun for La Veta to be renowned as the Rosy-Finch paradise? We could do that, just like Sandia in New Mexico and Estes Park in Northern Colorado…but no where else in the world.

But, what vegetables should I start now? What grows with what? Which chickens do well here? When should I order them? I am a good researcher, but there is little better than a friend who has done it before! Would you like to get together and chat for an hour or two, once in awhile? I would… Imagine what we could learn; just from sharing.

We are in a horrible economic time; not to mention what is happening to our world with regard to wars, climate change, and the insidious changes to the food we buy. I plan to start a Victory Garden to ensure I eat healthy food and save on both ecological and financial costs; a Wildlife Garden that will both feed my birds and help the environment and that which lives in it; and to finish my pond…for the shear beauty of it. What do you want to plan? Would you like to get together with like minded people?

I am organizing such a group which will meet regularly but will not be a ‘club’; there will be no RSVPs; just come when you can and if you want to. I plan to pick ‘topics’ to start the evening…but we will undoubtedly go on to much more. I will have books to share, do you? We can meet in my home, or at Sammie’s, should the numbers be greater than six; unless you have other ideas. I will research stuff, bring print-outs, and ask for a donation to cover costs and my time; give only what you think I’m worth or for the cost of printing & hosting. If you are interested; call me, Beverly Jensen (I'm in the local phone book) and leave a message with phone number. Or, e-mail me: goldiloucks (notice the spelling) at the yahoo place, or ‘friend me’ on Facebook: Beverly Loucks Jensen.

The number of folks interested will decide when and where we meet… Add: ‘Gardening’ to your subject line, or topic so that I can tell you from SPAM! LOL

Leave religious and political notions at the door, bring questions and answers about gardening only. I would prefer we stay organic and leave talk of toxins & other poisons at the door, too.

Native and Natural Foods for Wildlife...

It has been awhile since I've posted something; funny how life gets in the way, sometimes. Still, I enjoy writing, the weather is cooling, I'm unemployed and running out of excuses. So, I've picked a piece I started awhile ago, because while at the "year-end sale" at my favorite plant nursery, Perennial Favorites in Rye, I finally met two sort of heroes of mine: Diana and Merrilee. They are the owners of the nursery...a wonderful place and a delight to visit.

I'd first discovered the nursery while on one of the first birding-trips I ever experienced. A lovely man, Dave Silverman, has been a birder for probably longer than I've been in Colorado (some 35 years) and has headed up the Spanish Peaks Christmas Bird Count for the last 20+ years. Needles to say, he's an expert birder...heck, he often birds by ear! This day we were bird-watching around his home turf in Rye and Colorado City, and as is his custom, he took the group to this outstanding nursery where we saw a many birds happily flitting about. I go back at least once a year, ever since.

To make a long story short, before I drove up to Perennial Favorites yesterday, I checked out their Facebook page and website. There I discovered Diana is the one who intends to write a piece about growing your own birdseed...on their blog. Well, here are some photos that perhaps will spur her on...as I told her I'd be watching for the article. As it turns out, I had planned a similar article for my blog! I have created several posts on the topic, found when clicking the Label: Native Plants (or this link)

So, here we go. The following are pictures I've taken of some plants in my yard that I've seen birds enjoying. Of course, they like more than just seed; the flowers are important, too. As are the insects that they attract.

Grasses might be the some of the most important foods for birds and other critters. Birds not only eat the seeds, but also hide in the tall tangles. I almost always plant some annual (here) purple fountain grass in pots around the yard. Along a lot of my fences are many grasses, wild I assume, that I let grow tall.

Seed-heads from various grasses and forbes are an important food source for birds and winter-hungry critters.

Some flowers offer nectar, like this columbine and pink penstemon, while some offer both pollen and seed, like the yellow tickseed. Each of these plants is drought resistant, very easy to grow and propagate freely.

On an earlier visit to Perennial Favorites, I purchases the Ornamental Thistle for it's stunning architectural look and wild leaves. The purple thistle is much like the inside of an artichoke, and offers seeds all winter. The native vine, Virginia Creeper, is an ivy that produces dark fruit in the late fall and early winter. I've seen birds mobbing the fences where I have it growing. It is absolutely stunning in the fall; turning crimson as the weather cools. It was within this vine that I saw my very first Hermit Thrush...and then three...feeding on the berries under snow-laden leaves.

Black-eyed Susans (behind the Russian Sage) and a stunning Purple Cone-flower also offer ripe seeds after their petals fall. While the cone-flower prefers some moisture, these plants can be somewhat drought resistant after they have settled in. Finches love 'em.

Yes, birds love Sumac seed and so do humans! It is often used as a spice, for it's citrus-like flavors. In my neighborhood phoebes, northern mockingbird, gray catbird, wood thrush, hermit thrush and even common crows love this plant. I've planted it in the far back of my yard where it can grow and spread into a small thicket...in spite of my allergy to it's 'itchy' leaves. There is another sumac called Low-grow Sumac that also provides berries and does not itch. I've planted that under my New Mexican Privet in a place I might develop for additional plants and wouldn't appreciate an allergic reaction! The unknown yellow plant grows rather like a vining black-eyed susan and appeared out of nowhere. It sure makes good seed.

The beautiful, tall 'candles' of the wild Mullen become long spires of seed that small birds love. Underneath a sunflower feeder, one is apt to find shoots that, if left alone, will develop into these beautiful, large, yellow seed-heads. At Perennial Favorites the other day, we watched a Black-capped Chickadee come and go from such a plant, bent totally over by it's weight so that the little bird had to hang upside down to collect seed.

In every yard I've ever had in Colorado, I've planted New Mexican Privet and treated it like a wild screen. While it can be clipped and shaped, I like it's willowy and tall growth habit. The yellow and highly scented flowers appear before the leaves in spring and black berries appear as the leaves turn bright yellow in the fall. This plant is also referred to as the Desert Olive, though I've not ventured a taste.

I use a Miscanthus gracillimus-Morning Light or three in every garden, too. As an ornimental statement, they are a stunning 'fountain grass' that reach over five feet when in 'bloom'. And the plants shape and seed heads last nearly all winter. When they get too big, dig 'um up, saw into quarters and re-plant in at least three new locations!

I looked high and low for these two plants: a Thornless Hawthorn and a tiny-fruiting crab-apple. I don't want trees with wicked, four-inch thorns anywhere in my yard (heck, I go for thornless roses too), and was tickled to find this multi-trunked beauty near by. It's grown into a beautiful screen against the fence and the birds love it after a few freezes. The same thing goes for crab-apples; birds really can't 'bite into one' until after the fruit freezes and thaws a few times. I look for what is called 'persistent fruit'; fruit that doesn't fall and litter the grass, but stays on the tree all winter, giving the critters time to enjoy them. The Centurian's fruit is about the size of a large coffee bean and grows rather like cherries. Oh, I have a couple of sour cherry trees they enjoy, too.

I bought the Purple smokebush more for its color than anything else. Last year it had some sort of wilty-virus on one branch. I cut it off; the bush revived and looks great today...though I'm not sure it's anything birds enjoy. After the blouzy flowers (that look like smoke), it does get a tiny, one seeded fruit...so who knows. It's the chokecherry though, that critters enjoy; everything from birds to bears! And some folks make jam with its berries, too.

I grew up in California where we had pyracantha bushes. I thought they were beautiful, especially when laden with bunches of bright-red fruit. The birds loved the fruit which are like little, soft apples and would eat until they became drunk. However, this is another plant with huge spikes or thorns nearly four-inches long...if memory serves. And they are poisonous and hurt like the dickens if one manages to get pricked; which is pretty easy to do...they're covered with the daggers. Another name for them is Firethorn; go figure. However, I have found an almost identical plant sans thorns; the cotoneasters! That's pronounced "co-toney-aster" and there are several varieties. I have several, some will be small, others like small trees. And the birds love the berries, too. Beautiful plants all year long; without thorns.

Ninebark berries, if you can save some from the birds, make wine just as lovely as does elderberry; I grow it for the birds. It looks great all year, with bright fall colors coming with the colder weather. I usually look for species plants; plants not mucked with too much by breeders. Plant breeders breed for looks or flowers or scent, but generally not for rich nectar or healthy berries. I'm trying to feed a balanced diet, here! Keep in mind that the tiny bugs and spiders that live amongst the leaves and twigs are great food, too. Even hummingbirds need protein.

I have a large patch of red raspberries, too, though they prefer an almost boggy existence for really good berries. I break down and flood them a bit, once or twice a season, so they do okay for me and the birdies. Chokecherries, on the other-hand seem to produce abundantly even during a bit of a drought.

Hummingbird nectar not withstanding, it seems to me birds are not going through the food I provide, like they do in some months. Perhaps there are fewer of them just now (I remember things slowed down to the point I wondered if there were any birds left last September, but I also think the reason is that there is an abundance of natural/native food that is available to them. Because I have great variety and try to use native plants, none of the bugs or diseases become too much for any plant. I never spray or toss out poisons. The galls on the chokecherries this year provided good eating for warblers; spider mites are eaten, too. It's all good.

Photos by me, except privet and Miscanthus...from Wikipedia

Eagles as Yard Birds...

Would that I could...



Don't they sound sweet? Hard to realize they're some three-feet tall!

I am building a pond that serves as a bird-feeder, ya know! [grinz]

Somehow I imagine the biggest bird I'll entice is a Belted Kingfisher...known around these parts! Wouldn't it be neat if I got another, bigger bird; some heron, or perhaps an egret for example? Please though...no ducks or geese; I got those in Denver...not so nice is such a small pond.

On Feeding Hummingbirds & Orioles

Who doesn't like to feed hummingbirds? Have you ever found a big bird at your humming bird feeders? Orioles also enjoy nectar…though sometimes a less ‘rich’ blend like 5/1 or even 6/1. I drill out some of the holes on the plastic ‘pan’ feeders (which have perches these birds need to feed from the feeder; they don’t ‘hover’) I use for the hummers and let them feed on the same stuff the hummingbirds enjoy. They always do. Course, I also offer orange slices and halves, as well as grape jelly (which also bring in the Tanagers).
Both like meal worms, too; but back to the nectar… I mix a 4/1 concoction of water and plain ol’ granulated sugar to make the nectar I offer all season; the 'season' being 2-3 weeks before anticipated arrival to 2-3 weeks after I see the last bird

Granulated Sugar is made from either of two plants: sugar cane or sugar beets. There is no real difference in the sugar made from these plants; some manufactures don’t even mention which is used. The sucrose in each is the same, but trace elements are different; but have insignificant nutritional effects. Regular sugar = fine granulated sugar = table sugar = standard granulated sugar = extra-fine granulated sugar is the standard table sugar we're all familiar with.

"White" sugar is created in a couple of ways. Beet sugar is produced much the same way as cane sugar. The beets are sliced and soaked with chemicals to form a sugary syrup. Sugar cane is initially pressed and the juice is then mixed with lime to achieve the desired PH-balance and to help settle out impurities.

The liquid, now a dark grayish-green color, is heated to its boiling point, and chemicals are added to remove impurities. Sulphur dioxide is introduced to the cane juice before evaporation. It effectively bleaches the mixture. Next, the juice is placed in huge tanks to evaporate, leaving a thick syrup. This syrup is heated to remove more and more water until crystals form. These crystals must be separated from the syrup, so they are put into a centrifuge machine which spins it around rapidly.

The sugar which is left inside the machine's cylinders is called raw sugar. In this form, the sugar has uses to some manufacturers, but to make it suitable for food, it must go to a refinery. There, it is dissolved, treated with chemicals, filtered, crystallized once more, and allowed to solidify, this time into pure white sugar.

This mixture is then run through a centrifuge again to take away the outer coating of the raw sugar crystals. Phosphoric acid and calcium hydroxide are then added to the juice which then combine and absorb or trap impurities. The resulting syrup is then filtered through a bed of activated carbon to remove molasses and then crystallized a number of times under vacuum. It is then further dried to produce white refined sugar like we buy in the store. (Ugg, who knew? How can they call white, granulated sugar ‘pure’? Sheessh! …there are benefits to the research I do)

Turbinado sugar, also known as ‘turbinated sugar’, is made from sugar cane extract. It is produced by crushing freshly cut sugar cane; the juice obtained is evaporated by heat, then crystallized. The crystals are spun in a centrifuge, or turbine (thus the name), to remove excess moisture, resulting in the characteristic large, light brown crystals. Turbinado sugar differs from refined white sugar in that it is obtained or crystallized from the initial pressing of sugar cane. Because the turbinado sugar is less refined than white sugar, it is often called ‘Raw Sugar’. Turbinado and demerara sugars are the same and often sold as organic products. . It also is considered by some to be “healthier” since it receives less processing than does white sugar. Unlike granulated sugar, turbinado sugar tends to hold more moisture, and is lower in calories...and should NOT be used for hummingbird nectar (see below.)

Brown sugar is refined white sugar with a molasses-syrup mixed in and then dried again.

About making nectar to feed birds; do not use commercially prepared liquids or mixes. They contain preservatives that are even more harmful to birds than to humans (it’s a size thing), as well as various dyes which have also been proven harmful as well. Let the feeder itself provide the color (red attracts hummingbirds (and orioles, to), but yellow is favored by bees and wasps. I always remove the yellow ‘flowers’ when I find ‘em on feeders.

Do not use brown sugar, confectioner’s sugar, raw sugar, or turbinado sugar to make your nectar. Confectioner’s sugar contains corn starch that can cause the syrup to ferment quickly. Brown sugar and raw sugars contain iron and can prove deadly to hummingbirds over a period of time.

Do not use artificial sugar if only because it contains absolutely no nutritional value (not to mention what it does contain).

Do not use honey to prepare your mixture. Honey will ferment more quickly and also promotes the growth of fungus and other organisms that attack the digestive system of the small birds.

Regardless of what you read, boil a mixture of 1 part sugar to 4 parts water (1 cup sugar + 4 cups water (thanks Anon for correcting my typo)) for two minutes to retard fermentation. Keep the lid on the pot to reduce evaporation. Do not microwave the mixture as this heating method is hotter than water’s boiling point and causes a breakdown in the sugar molecule. Cool and refrigerate what is not immediately used. Warm temperatures and direct sunlight cause fermentation and bacterial growth within the sugar-water; therefore it is critical that feeders be emptied and cleaned every two to four days. (Yet another reason to begin the season only filling feeders partially full; you’ll waste less.)

Oh, another goodie I learned from the hummingbird book Bosque Bill suggested (by Dan True; see Bill’s Place): Place pieces of fruit that attract fruit flies and gnats near a feeder (bananas, peaches, apricots, etc). I’ve watched hummers hawking gnats swarming over grass and understand they eat tiny spiders and other bugs deep within evergreens; but the fruit attracts the tiny bugs to eye-level, where you can watch …and the hummers will thank you for the extra protein!

One last consideration: the 4/1 ratio is sort of a generalization. Plants naturally contain higher and lower ratios of sugar to water; depending on weather, water, etc. When birds first arrive during migration, they might enjoy a higher level of sugar to water; it will certainly keep the birds coming back when they’re nearly starving. However, keep in mind that nectar is where the birds get water, so too rich a mixture will do more harm than good as the weather gets warmer and everything needs to drink more water. There have been some studies regarding whether or not too rich a blend damages birds’ livers, too. Perhaps a slightly richer ratio very early in the season would be beneficial, but certainly not for the long run; cut back to 4-to-1 before summer gets rolling. That said, by and large a bird knows what it needs. Rich food makes for fewer visits to feeders; a more natural concoction will allow them the time to rest and/or feed on other foods.

Other Sources:

• http://www.bigsiteofamazingfacts.com/how-is-sugar-made
• http://www.foodsubs.com/Sweeten.html
  http://www.sucrose.com
• http://www.greenlivingtips.com/articles/73/1/White-sugar-vs-raw-sugar.html
• http://www.google.com/searchhl=en&q=How+to+Feed+Hummingbirds&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&oq=
• http://www.hummingbirds.net/hainsworth.html

Hummingbird photos from Wikipedia; Orioles are mine

Creat a Bird Garden: Plant Native! Part II

I spoke last time, about making gardening easier, using less water; having more time to enjoy the wildlife a native-planted garden will bring. Do remember the bit about layering; planting tall in back and pulling edges toward the yard with progressively shorter plantings. Try planting in 3's and 5's for a more natural effect.

In the fall, leave the leaf-litter, even rake leaves from the lawn up under the shrubs and trees; the birds will love that and the plants will thrive under protection from the elements. I call all this "Shabby-chic" gardening, but its million-dollar to the environment. Well...and your back!

Please remember not to use insecticides and herbacides in your garden, either. These poison both good and bad bugs which are eaten by larger bugs, which are eaten by birds. And they kill our native bees, too. A diverse garden is a healthy garden. A few bad bugs cannot munch their way through an entire garden, unless that garden is already lacking diversity, numbers and health. Keep your garden healthy by planting in both numbers and diversity...and not using poisions; the whole world will thank you for it! That's a Blue Orchard Bee to the right; these highly valuable bees are quite friendly and seldom do they sting!

Cherries and Plums - Wild plums and cherries are eaten by over 80 species of birds including American robins, blackbirds, black-headed grosbeaks, bluebirds, blue jays,
catbirds, cedar waxwings, common flickers, downy woodpeckers, grackles, hairy woodpeckers, hermit thrushes, house finches, house sparrows, Lewis' woodpeckers, northern cardinals, northern mockingbirds, northern orioles, pine grosbeaks, red-headed woodpeckers, rose-breasted grosbeaks, ruffed grouse, song sparrows, stellar jays, Townsend's solitares, western tanagers, white-crowned sparrows, white-throated sparrows, wood thrushes. From 7’ – 30’. Some hardy to Zone 2.

Crabapples, Dogwoods - Eaten by over 45 species of birds including American robins, blue birds, blue jays, bobwhites, cardinals, cedar waxwings, flickers, evening grosbeaks, grackles, house finches, house sparrows, jays, northern mockingbirds, pine grosbeaks, rose-breasted grosbeaks, and red-headed and downy woodpeckers. Look for those called 'persistant', which means they hold their fruit for the winter. These make little mess; holding fruit on the tree while it freezes and thaws a few times so the birds can utilize it. Also look for the plants which produce fruit smaller than 1/2 an inch; again, less mess and easier for birds to handle. Generally 15-30’ Hardy to Zone 4

Native Maples, Evergreens, Aspen, Ash and Oak - Hugely important food sources to many, many birds and other wildlife. Maple flowers and seeds, Evergreen berries like the Juniper berry and of course pine cones and their seeds, Aspen flowers and obviously acorns. Colorado's River Maple stays a fairly small tree, several evergreens are small and shrubby. While Aspen can get quite big, Gambel and Live Oak are manageable and their acorns necessary to a great variety of wildlife.

Viburnum – a shrub or small tree (150 species) that offers sizes from 2 to 30’ and which fruit, depending on variety, from summer through fall and winter. Most birds feed at this versatile plant. I look for several species for my yard; small trees with horzontal branching make them spectacular to look at. Smaller bushes provide the stepped-down look I want and more fruit and cover for the birds; all in a very natural, easy care yard. Many hardy to Zone 3.

Elderberries – Over 100 species of birds eat them including American robins, black-headed grosbeaks, bluebirds, blue jays, brown thrashers, catbirds, cedar waxwings, common flickers, finches, grackles, house sparrows, northern mockingbirds, red-eyed vireos, red-headed woodpeckers, rose-breasted grosbeaks, titmice, towhees, white-breasted nuthatches, and white-crowned sparrows. Deer also enjoy this plant shrub or small, bushy tree. Hardy to Zone 3-4.

Serviceberries and Chokecherries - Eaten by over 42 species of birds including American robins, brown thrashers, catbirds, cedar waxwings, chickadees, common flickers, downy woodpeckers, hairy woodpeckers, hermit thrush, house finches, juncos, kingbirds, mourning doves, northern orioles, phoebes, red-eyed vireos, red-headed woodpeckers, and scarlet tanagers. 10-25’ Hardy to Zone 4.

Grapes - Over 90 species of birds eat them including American robins, blue jays, brown thrashers, cedar waxwings, evening grosbeaks, grackles, house finches, house sparrows, magpies, northern cardinals, northern mockingbirds, orioles, Stellar jays, towhees, and yellow-billed cuckoos. Hardy to Zone 4.

Virginia Creeper, Honeysuckle, Silver Lace and other vines - Not only are these colorful plants useful in garden design for their beauty alone, and while it's true berries and flowers are enjoyed by birds and bugs alike...but who knew the Silver Lace Vine was so important to bees and other pollinating insects? Hardy to Zone 4.

Hackberries - Eaten by over 45 species of birds including bobwhite, brown thrashers, cedar waxwings, common flickers, curved bill thrashers, eastern bluebirds, evening grosbeaks, hermit thrush, northern cardinals, northern mockingbirds, northern orioles, phoebes, pileated woodpeckers, some quail, roadrunners, red-bellied woodpeckers, titmice, and towhees. 25-75’ Hardy to Zone 2.

Mulberries - Eaten by over 55 species of birds including American robins, bluebirds, blue jays, brown thrashers, catbirds, cedar waxwings, downy woodpeckers, grackles, house sparrows, kingbirds, northern cardinals, northern mockingbirds, northern orioles, orchard orioles, red-bellied woodpeckers, red-eyed vireos, red-headed woodpeckers, rose-breasted grosbeaks, scarlet tanagers, titmice, wood thrush, yellow-billed cuckoos, and yellow warblers. Varieties from bush to large tree. Some hardy to Zone 5.

Winterberry or Holly and Blueberries – Over 80 species of birds eat them including American robins, black-capped chickadees, common flickers, grackles, house sparrows, kingbirds, many species of orioles, towhees, and tufted titmice. However, male and female flowers are produced on separate plants, so at least one male variety is needed for pollination and fruit set…which occurs on the female plants, and the plant prefers acidic soil; not generally found in CO and difficult to maintain. 4-6’ Hardy to Zone 4.

Pyracantha and Cotoneaster – Cedar Waxwings will eat Pyracantha berries till they’re drunk! Most birds enjoy the berries produced by this spiny plant (also called Firethorn) With Cotoneaster (pronounced ka-tō'-nē-as-ter), you get a similar plant but without the often painful thorns! 4-6’ Hardy to Zone 5.

Raspberries and Blackberries - Over 140 species of birds eat them including American robins, blue jays, common flickers, fox sparrows, grackles, house sparrows, orchard orioles, red-headed woodpeckers, tufted titmice, wood thrush, northern cardinals, northern mockingbirds, northern orioles, rose-breasted grosbeak, song sparrows, and white-throated sparrows. Hardy to
Zone 3-4.

Ground Covers – such as Kinnickinnick, Wintergreen, Bearberry, Lingonberry and Low-growning Sumac (which is also not ‘itchy’) and several junipers are lovely and mostly evergreen plants that birds surely enjoy. Most hardy to Zone 2-3.

Strawberries - Eaten by over 50 species of birds including American robins, blue jays, catbirds, cedar waxwings, common flickers, crows, evening grosbeaks, grackles, house sparrows, magpies, northern mockingbirds, some quail, rose-breasted grosbeaks, towhees, and wood thrush. Hardy to Zone 4.

All photos from Wikipedia